Space for circulation is often overlooked in our involvement with styles, colors, room focus, etc. We forget to really analyze how much space we need in order to get around in an area. Oh, we leave “some” space–maybe a foot or so.

In kitchen areas, we can generally expect more than one person to be moving about, at least some of the time. Cabinet and appliance doors open to narrow a passageway. Stools are pulled out into the passageway. Likewise dining room chairs must be pushed from the table to allow us to get into them and up from them.

A standard rule with designers is to leave a minimum of 3.5 feet space in a kitchen aisle or around a dining table for circulation. Coffee tables and sofa’s need about 2 feet of space between them for leg room. To enter a conversational furniture arrangement, again use the 3.5 feet rule as minimum. Of course, one “can” get through in a smaller space–however, it is awkward and appears cramped. People are more comfortable with the extra space.

Your existing hallways  or corridors may not be 5′, but if someone in the household is walking down the hall with a laundry basket, and someone else is approaching  from the opposite end with something at his side, they will wish the hallway WAS 5 feet wide. (Even wheelchairs can turn around in a 5′ space–a definite consideration should there be an accident or an elderly in the home.) Typically, we say a minimum 3 feet of width for a passage that only one person will walk through, and a minimum of 3′-6″ where there may be two people passing from opposite directions. (Odd?? yes! How does that second person fit into a 6′ space?–Both people have to slide a bit sideways!)  If you are building, just make the halls 5′ wide. You will be very glad you did–as will every owner of the home thereafter. 

Remember, your spaces need to fit you like your favorite shoe. Ask yourself, “Does the Shoe….FIT? If not, feel free to contact us, Breay Design Associates, for help……You’ll be glad you did!

A traditional area rug defines – just that, an area within a room. These can be just a few feet in width & length up to approximately 10’ x 12’. When the rugs measure 12’ x 18’ and larger, they are considered room-sized rugs or certainly covering a wide expanse. Many go almost wall-to-wall, but with many advantages not available from standard carpeting.

Art rugs are artistic woven pieces usually smaller than functional area rugs, and can be used in conjunction with any other type of floor covering. Typical size might be 4’ x 6’ to 7’ x 9’.

Scatter rugs or throw rugs are as smallas 2’x3’; these add accent or color to a small area, or protect a part of the floor that receives really hard wear. Depending upon the material, if it is to be placed outdoors or in a bathroom, it is referred to as a bathmat or a doormat.

Now, we all can be more specific to our needs! Remember, your home needs to fit you like a favorite shoe. When thinking about your interior and exterior spaces, ask yourself, “Does the Shoe……FIT?” And give us a call if you need some help.  –Sharon

Perhaps the best solution for “the dog’s” paths, is to make them into actual paths. The dogs establish patterns, so if you have dog paths, make it a mulched path, put some shrubbery at some of it’s curved edges, and allow both the dog and you to enjoy it. Remember the human mind is always intrigued by what it cannot see around a curve.

Don’t you just hate it when the puppy—or older—dog eats your prize flowers? Actually, you could lose both dog and flower, because many common plants are poisonous. Check with your nurseryman before buying a plant if you have a plant-eating pet. Garden edging is a deterrent to this. Dogs dislike running over large river rock, sharp granite (driveway stone), and prickly bushes (juniper, barberry, cotoneaster, etc.) With a couple feet depth of such edging, most dogs avoid the entire garden bed. 

Dogs love to dig. But a dog often digs under the fence because they want to see what’s on the other side, especially with the all-prevalent privacy fencing. So give them a window!  Cut a small holes in the privacy fencing in a couple locations at the dog’s eye-level (or level’s if you have different size dogs).  Help your doggie to be aware they are there.

Give Fido a place where he can lay in the shade, and he may also stop digging to get down into the cooler soil.

Remember if we have pets, they live on our property also—but do not think like humans (even if it seems so).  We can lessen our stress and their corrections, by thinking a little like them!

Asymmetrical balance

Last posting we discussed symmetrical furniture, and/or accessory arrangement as being great for a formal style of space, having a mirror image or 50/50 balance. But what if you don’t care for formal, and it’s somewhat predictability?  You still need balance in the arrangement of elements to have a feeling of assurance to the  space.

Aysmmetrical balance is for the more casual style. Instead of a 50/50 mirror image, as symmetrical balance of elements, aysmmetrical is more like 65/35. It balances, but not as a mirror image. It’s a little like many of our lives in this day and age. We may work extra long hours for awhile; then take off time to be with family to balance our life. 

An example of an aysmmetrical furniture arrangement would be the sofa having a chair or two perpendicular to it, with  a table and lamp in the corner, between the sofa and chair(s). Think of an “L” as an example of symmetrical balance.   

Accessories look great arranged aysmmetrically; perhaps one item taller, with one or two small items on one side, and three or four small items on the other side. For interest, we wouldn’t align the objects in a straight row. We’d put some forward, some back, something a bit in front of the larger item.

Aysmmetrical arrangement is particularly pleasing in architecture that is also non-traditional, non symmetrical.  It often works well with the architecture of western homes. If in doubt, walk outside and look at the front of your home. Are windows and other features  the same on the right as on the left? Is the door centered in the front view? If so, you have symmetrically balanced architecture, as opposed to aysmmetrical.

And remember–if your surroundings don’t fit “you”  like a favorite shoe, you need a little redesign!  –Sharon Breay,    Does the Shoe….FIT?   design programs & workshops

Symmetrical balance occurs when things are arranged the same on both the right and the left, somewhat like a mirror image. My Mom used to have her sofa against a wall, with matching end tables on either side of the sofa, and matching lamps on each end table. There was a 50/50 split to the arrangement. This is symmetrical balance. Another example would be to place a loveseat on either side of the fireplace, facing each other. This principle can also be applied to a group of wall hangings, as one large piece in the center, with a smaller piece on either side.

So what does it matter? Just as we feel more relaxed and assured when our lives are in balance, we feel the same when coming into a room with the elements balancing each other.  Symmetrical balance presents a somewhat formal and reserved look to a room. This is worth considering. If you wish a formal look to an area, simply arranging the furniture will help you achieve your goal. If the architectural style of your home is formal, this is the type of furniture and accessory arrangement for you.

But what if you are more casual? What if you don’t care for such predictability? Can you still get a balance of elements in a space? Join us May 30th for the next discussion of furniture and accessory balance.              And by the way, which do YOU think is easier to attain?  Home Interior balance, or   Life Balance???

And remember–if your surroundings don’t fit “you”  like a favorite shoe, you need a little redesign!  –Sharon Breay,    Does the Shoe….FIT?   design programs & workshops

Removing old, overgrown shurbs is NOT a small task. However, you will be happy to have done it. Here’s what Horticulture magazine recommends, with a few of my own Colorado ideas thrown in for you locals:  

1) Cut off as many branches as possible to get to the trunk and base. Do not saw off the trunk; leave a good-sized stump and some of the lowest branches to use as handles when you get to the lifting-out stage.

2) Digging about 2 feet from the trunk, working around it,  dig down one foot all around, cutting off the thick roots in your path. Keep digging in a circle, coming closer to the trunk until you expose the bulk of the root mass. Clear the dirt from the roots.

3) Now try to rock the shrub a bit to loosen it. It may not budge!  Keep digging and working to cut off the largest roots near the stump, until it starts to loosen. When you can rock the stump partially up from the hoe, have a partner hold it tipped so you can cut any roots from underneath. When all roots have been severed you should be able to wedge the shovel under it, and lever it out while a partner pulls on the stump. Then remove any remaining roots from the hole and fill it in with the soil set aside.

4) If the shrub was very large, or there were several, you will probably need some topsoil to fill in the depression.  If the shrub was large, you may need to tie it to the trailer hitch of a truck to haul it out.

THE key shrub I’ve seen in Colorado causing major shrub overgrowth is the common juniper, followed by arborvitae (the globe variety).  These fairly inexpensive shrubs thrive in Colorado have low water needs, and the juniper has no problem with our full sun and winter winds. However, while you are (often) pruning  the branches, realize the roots are continuing to grow and spread! If left unpruned, many of these will obtain a 10′ height– they looked so good at 2′-4′ high in their early years!  With such a large root mass underground, growing most other plants beside them is not feasible.

On April 30th, we’ll discuss other landscaping mistakes to avoid.   And remember–if your surroundings don’t fit “you”  like a favorite shoe, you need a little redesign!  –Sharon Breay,    Does the Shoe….FIT?   design programs & workshops

And then there’s Mom & Dad–aging, but still active. According to the Denver Community Relations Agency for Human Rights, 58% of people over 65 years have 1 or more “disability.” According to the American Assoc. of Retired Persons, 90% of retired persons want to age in their own home.

There are multitudes of methods that we have to help them all do so. The easiest time to create a home that will accommodate physical challenges, as well as help the rest of us,  is when a remodel is done. Researching how your home could be made more accessible to everyone will be well worth your time. There is much more to consider than a ramp or grab bars.

One small example: those in wheelchairs cannot reach up to our kitchen wall cabinets, generally where the plates, glasses, saucers, etc. are kept. As a matter of fact, neither can children. (Isn’t it almost easier to just set the table yourself than get everything out for them to do so?) Typically, we don’t put smaller items like dishes and glasses into the lower 24″ deep cabinets; reaching to the back of the cabinet is difficult, and clumsy. And yet, it is demoralizing to need to ask for help reaching them.

How easy it would be if two 24″ or 30″ wide x 30″ high x 12″ deep wall cabinets were adhered back to back, put on roller casters, and slid under the typical 36″ high kitchen countertop? (Countertop would be braced to the back wall.) There would be twice the space of one wall cabinet, as the cabinets are back to back, easy to rotate. Put a top on this unit, and everyone has a mobile work island with storage, that can easily be rolled under the counter when not in use.  Move it out, and you have a bar, or chair space for a child to work at the 36″ counter. No more demoralizing; everyone can reach commonly used objects.

Nature has a wonderful way of soothing our psychics! Who can resist the pause to smell a spring lilac? Are there times you go for a walk to think things through? As we discussed in February 28^th’s blog, sacred spaces/healing spaces are places of refuge, places to think, places to pray or play. A place in your yard is often the best for this if done with some planning.

To be effective, the sacred/healing space needs to fit the user’s needs. Ask yourself, what will this space be used for?  Who will be using it? What time of day will it generally be used? If you’re a person who sunburns easily, you may want to plan this space in some shady spot; but if you love to sit quietly and look at the sky at night, best not to have shade trees overhead!

These yard areas need some privacy. Plan ahead how that will be accomplished. (Remember good design can be had on any budget. Some string and a packet of castor bean or morning-glory seeds can be had for under five dollars.) The path to this space should have soft curves and of natural materials. (One very cost effective material is a thick layer of pine needles.) Once you walk there, you’ll want a place to sit. It could be a comfortable chair, a hammock or swing, or a large tree stump or rock to keep the natural feel.

Delightful places of refuge like this can easily be made within an 8 x 8 space. You will probably spend more than five or ten minutes here. You may want to think of some type of water feature, flowering plants, aromatic plants or shrubs, a weatherproof container to hold writing or drawing materials, perhaps a soft wind chime.

Have some fun planning, and please do share your ideas with our readers and myself. Your idea may be someone else’s springboard to their own idea.

Let’s get together again on March 30^th, and see where everyone is at. Until then—

Blessings and Love to You–Sharon

The exercise room is an example: for some it is becoming a wellness center. It may have an in-house sauna, steam room, double shower, fountains, etc. And we’re seeing outdoor kitchens. Regardless of age, income, or other demographics, we want specially designed private getaways. Size is not an issue; these spaces can be quite small. Think of multi-tasking a space. For instance, when we rearranged a formal dining room, and added book-shelves, lounge chair and reading light, our client got a library as well! Another example is turning a laundry room into a hobby center and laundry room.

One client was astounded to come into the new quiet room and find all three of her sons sitting quietly reading! We had removed all electronic equipment and laid the furniture out on a diagonal. That was all, and the children were responding to the changes.

This type of space should  be digital free, windowless unless there is a beautiful full scene from the outside. The space needs a good reading/sewing light, lots of puffy pillows, and warm earthy tones with deep browns. However, color and a quiet zen quality is up to the client. No other space needs as personalized design as this. Joyce Goldstein of J. Goldstein Interiors recently created a space in a garage, later featured in the Robb Report periodical. It was a man’s playroom, with a 92” projector TV with a continual feed of car races. It had real race car seats for lounging, and bar stools made from car wheels.

In our next blog, we’ll discuss how we create Sacred Spaces/Healing Spaces Outdoors. It will get us all planning for summer.  —-See you then!  Sharon  Breay

Courtesty of OutdoorLighting Perspectives

Hi again!  This blog will continue discussing exterior lighting, focusing on the task lighting of our entries. In review, our yards need three layers of lighting:

1)      Ambient, low level general impression lighting

2)      Task lighting for where we perform tasks

3)      Accent lighting for areas of interest (the brightest area of lighting)

You may have a walk leading up to some steps at your entry. Perhaps a fixture with lights about eye level will be enough for both walkway and steps. The steps will need brighter lighting than the walk so no one trips on them. Therefore, put the light close to the steps, allowing the waning light from the fixture to glow down the walk. If you have a longer walk, you may need a lower, small auxiliary light further down the walk, being careful not to create monotony with too many of the same fixtures.

The steps consist of treads we walk on, and risers (at the back of the tread ) that take the treads to the next level. If we light the steps from below or with lighting that illuminates both tread and riser equally, we have a safety hazard. The user can be easily confused seeing both treads and risers as “one” plane because of the equal lighting on both, instead of 1 horizontal plane (tread) and one vertical plane (riser).But if we light the steps from above, the treads are lit and the risers are in shadow. This is a much safer method of lighting steps.

Now visualize the door. Consider putting a light right above the door or at the side of it. Having one light centered in a porch ceiling will give overall light, but you will be in your own shadow trying to unlock a door. If you have this situation, consider adding task lighting over the door or at it’s side.

Next blog, let’s discuss discuss designing for happiness.

See you then!—Sharon Breay